Art practice from Shellzilla. Feedback is greatly appreciated!

[Shellzilla_515]

I've been thinking for a while now of making an art thread for the purpose of expanding and developing my skills. I thought it would be a good idea to post here since there are a lot of talented people who can draw well and could maybe get some criticism on it. Before we begin, I use Krita as my program to draw digital art with a Wacom Intuos drawing pad. There are some limits I had to work around so I hope you understand that.

Shading with shapes (I followed a tutorial here)

The brush I used here is '_Airbrush_Soft' according to Krita. Depending on the pressure, the shade would be darker. Alternatively, I would colour over the same area to get a darker shade as well. Following the tutorial, the light source is coming from myself (aside from a couple of spheres). Now, there's a debate about not using black to shade but for the sake of only practicing, I didn't care about it for now. Because of my limited number of brushes that are already hard to shade with, it looks pretty meh, especially for the curtains. I haven't done ambient occlusion shading yet which is also in the tutorial I watched.

Hand practice (I didn't follow a tutorial)

I used my own hands as a reference to get different poses. I didn't worry too much about the extra details or a realistic style. I was only concerned about trying to get the shapes right. If you look closely, almost each hand has a boxy structure as I'm imagining them as 3d objects to help me. Obviously, it's not very good since I haven't dwelled in this area so often.

 

[Mistreil]

Hi! I hope it's okay for me to give my feedback 'w')9 Overall, I think you're doing good -- you've definitely tried to tackle some fairly challenging things: shading is hard, and hands are even harder! Practicing them and focusing on specific topics is great, so I really hope you keep it up!

(Also my usual disclaimer for stuff like this: take my feedback with a grain of salt and judge for yourself! I'm self-taught and most of the things I learned are from trial and error and things I picked up over time.)

---

Shading Part 1: Gradients
Since your focus was on shading for the first part, I'll focus on that too! I think you shaded well overall, especially in terms of faces that aren't directly facing the light source. My main critique would be for the softer shading where you used the airbrush: depending on the material of the item (e.g. fabric vs. leather vs. metal), the transition/gradient is a little too steep:

I tried to draw a linear gradient to show you what I meant. As an example, this is a 3D model of a sphere that I tried to put under similar lighting conditions (but with less of a point-light on it):

The change in colour is a little more gradual (and then there's more of a hard shadow when it reaches a place that no light touches. That's a bit beyond what I want to talk about, though.)

Using the sphere that you drew as a base, a version with more of a gradual transition would look like this:

The material of this sphere looks pretty different from the sphere that you had: yours looked like it was made of a more metallic material, while mine is a little closer to.... play-doh? Some generic type of material.

That's not to say the way you shaded isn't right, though! Shadows behave very differently depending on the intensity of the light source, its colour, its angle, and the material of the object. I just wanted to bring it to attention: if you try to shade skin in a similar way, it might end up looking too striking.

Now, there's a debate about not using black to shade but for the sake of only practicing, I didn't care about it for now.

This next little bit is in regards to something you said you didn't really care about, but I wanted to bring up anyways. You can skip it if you don't want to read -- it's nothing negative, but just a "you should experiment" sort of thing.

Spoiler: Shading colours

Right off the bat, I do want to say that shading to black isn't wrong. It's natural, and it happens in reality. This is a little more on the stylizing part.

I do want to say that it's good to experiment with different colours and shading methods, though. You'll figure out what you like in time, but the more different things you try, the more you'll figure out what you want to use and what you don't.

Below are two examples: the left one is where I shaded to a darker colour that's not black (this is similar to the colour choices you chose for the other faces in your shading practice, like in the pyramid). It's a lot less striking than the "shaded-to-black" versions. Whether this is good or not is up to you: it communicates a different mood and intensity overall.

The one on the right uses two colours: a brighter purple, and then a darker (more blue) purple. This is definitely a very stylized version, and I tried to go for something that is far from normal, but still looks fine. When you're shading, there's so many different choices you have. If you experiment a lot or even just study art people have made, you'll be able to figure out how to make any shading combination look good.

I think, in terms of learning how colours work together, it helps to experiment especially early on. Some combinations require very few adjustments to how you colour, but will make things look significantly more interesting.

I'm happy to talk more about shading choices and the whole 'shade-to-black' debate, but I don't think that's too interesting nor relevant right now.

Shading Part 2: Curtains
Back to your shapes: the curtains were a very good attempt! The shape is nice, but there were 2-ish parts I wanted to comment on:

These are sort of disjointed, but it should explain things. Airbrushes are nice, but they're also rounded and it makes it hard to make sharp edges. To get sharper edges, you can just use a soft brush to erase the ends and make it a bit sharper (and maybe let it trail on longer).

Rounded shading is fine for a lot of things, but it's a bit rare in fabric unless there's a rounded fold (curtains don't tend to do this, though.)

Hands
Hands are very difficult, and you did pretty well! The bottom-left most one (closed fist) was particularly good, so you should be proud!

While you said you weren't worrying about extra details or realistic styles, I'd very much recommend try to be able to sketch "realistic" hands first, and then learn to stylize them after. While a bit frustrating, it'll save you a lot of grief in the future! There's so many parts to hands and something looking 'slightly off' can end up having a huge effect (e.g. a misplaced joint or nail). Hands are notoriously difficult, especially since there's so much foreshortening/perspective involved (and that itself requires practice)!

I'd recommend actually taking photos of hands and tracing over them as practice, for example:

(Hand image from melyssah6-stock @ dA)​

Drawing where the joints are helps a lot, even if they're not 100% accurate (e.g. the joint connecting the thumb + palm was drawn a tiny bit too high in my picture). It gives you a sense of how long each part is, and how hands are composed. If you're ever struggling with hands that you've drawn, decomposing it in the same way to label the joints might help you figure out what doesn't look right.

Afterwards, you can use the traced drawing as a reference and try to draw hands freeform: it's a lot easier making sense of outlines for references compared to a photo.

Also, just because I have it handy: this is a hand tutorial that I like a lot!
I know you said you didn't follow a tutorial, but I just like sharing resources and feel like it's a good read.

---

I think you're doing great, and I look forward to seeing your progress and development!

 

[Shellzilla_515]

Hi! I hope it's okay for me to give my feedback 'w')9 Overall, I think you're doing good -- you've definitely tried to tackle some fairly challenging things: shading is hard, and hands are even harder! Practicing them and focusing on specific topics is great, so I really hope you keep it up!

(Also my usual disclaimer for stuff like this: take my feedback with a grain of salt and judge for yourself! I'm self-taught and most of the things I learned are from trial and error and things I picked up over time.)

---

Shading Part 1: Gradients
Since your focus was on shading for the first part, I'll focus on that too! I think you shaded well overall, especially in terms of faces that aren't directly facing the light source. My main critique would be for the softer shading where you used the airbrush: depending on the material of the item (e.g. fabric vs. leather vs. metal), the transition/gradient is a little too steep:

I tried to draw a linear gradient to show you what I meant. As an example, this is a 3D model of a sphere that I tried to put under similar lighting conditions (but with less of a point-light on it):

The change in colour is a little more gradual (and then there's more of a hard shadow when it reaches a place that no light touches. That's a bit beyond what I want to talk about, though.)

Using the sphere that you drew as a base, a version with more of a gradual transition would look like this:

The material of this sphere looks pretty different from the sphere that you had: yours looked like it was made of a more metallic material, while mine is a little closer to.... play-doh? Some generic type of material.

That's not to say the way you shaded isn't right, though! Shadows behave very differently depending on the intensity of the light source, its colour, its angle, and the material of the object. I just wanted to bring it to attention: if you try to shade skin in a similar way, it might end up looking too striking.


This next little bit is in regards to something you said you didn't really care about, but I wanted to bring up anyways. You can skip it if you don't want to read -- it's nothing negative, but just a "you should experiment" sort of thing.

Spoiler: Shading colours

Right off the bat, I do want to say that shading to black isn't wrong. It's natural, and it happens in reality. This is a little more on the stylizing part.

I do want to say that it's good to experiment with different colours and shading methods, though. You'll figure out what you like in time, but the more different things you try, the more you'll figure out what you want to use and what you don't.

Below are two examples: the left one is where I shaded to a darker colour that's not black (this is similar to the colour choices you chose for the other faces in your shading practice, like in the pyramid). It's a lot less striking than the "shaded-to-black" versions. Whether this is good or not is up to you: it communicates a different mood and intensity overall.

The one on the right uses two colours: a brighter purple, and then a darker (more blue) purple. This is definitely a very stylized version, and I tried to go for something that is far from normal, but still looks fine. When you're shading, there's so many different choices you have. If you experiment a lot or even just study art people have made, you'll be able to figure out how to make any shading combination look good.

I think, in terms of learning how colours work together, it helps to experiment especially early on. Some combinations require very few adjustments to how you colour, but will make things look significantly more interesting.

I'm happy to talk more about shading choices and the whole 'shade-to-black' debate, but I don't think that's too interesting nor relevant right now.

Shading Part 2: Curtains
Back to your shapes: the curtains were a very good attempt! The shape is nice, but there were 2-ish parts I wanted to comment on:

These are sort of disjointed, but it should explain things. Airbrushes are nice, but they're also rounded and it makes it hard to make sharp edges. To get sharper edges, you can just use a soft brush to erase the ends and make it a bit sharper (and maybe let it trail on longer).

Rounded shading is fine for a lot of things, but it's a bit rare in fabric unless there's a rounded fold (curtains don't tend to do this, though.)

Hands
Hands are very difficult, and you did pretty well! The bottom-left most one (closed fist) was particularly good, so you should be proud!

While you said you weren't worrying about extra details or realistic styles, I'd very much recommend try to be able to sketch "realistic" hands first, and then learn to stylize them after. While a bit frustrating, it'll save you a lot of grief in the future! There's so many parts to hands and something looking 'slightly off' can end up having a huge effect (e.g. a misplaced joint or nail). Hands are notoriously difficult, especially since there's so much foreshortening/perspective involved (and that itself requires practice)!

I'd recommend actually taking photos of hands and tracing over them as practice, for example:

(Hand image from melyssah6-stock @ dA)​

Drawing where the joints are helps a lot, even if they're not 100% accurate (e.g. the joint connecting the thumb + palm was drawn a tiny bit too high in my picture). It gives you a sense of how long each part is, and how hands are composed. If you're ever struggling with hands that you've drawn, decomposing it in the same way to label the joints might help you figure out what doesn't look right.

Afterwards, you can use the traced drawing as a reference and try to draw hands freeform: it's a lot easier making sense of outlines for references compared to a photo.

Also, just because I have it handy: this is a hand tutorial that I like a lot!
I know you said you didn't follow a tutorial, but I just like sharing resources and feel like it's a good read.

---

I think you're doing great, and I look forward to seeing your progress and development!

I just want to say a HUGE thank you for providing in-depth detail on many things I can improve on.It never came across my mind that the shading differs depending on the material of the object! I'll be more aware of this aspect when shading different objects. As for the curtains, thank you! I feel like there's still room for improvement in terms of shaping it, but hearing that compliment is pretty nice. Back to the shading part, specifically the curtains, I find it really interesting how some shadows shouldn't be too rounded. As you might be already aware, I used a '_Airbrush_Soft' in Krita. I forgot to mention this, but no matter how lightly I press on my tablet, the diameter of the brush stays the same and I'm unable to taper (or narrow) those shadows. So hearing that I should use a soft brush to erase the ends sounds like a great workaround within my limited tools!

Moving onto hands, I appreciate the compliment and feedback! I'll change up my approach on how to draw them. You're definitely right on how there are so many parts to the hands. It's so complex and that's probably the reason why so many people are struggling at first to draw them. I haven't even tried foreshortening yet so maybe I should work on that first. I'm that person who avoids tracing over pictures as much as possible, but maybe doing what you have suggested could help me better grasp (pun not intended) on how to draw hands. Once I get a better understanding, I'll do it in freeform. It's kinda like removing training wheels from your bike after getting a little more comfortable with it haha.

I definitely do not mind having to experiment different things and reading the tutorial you provided. After all, it's important to have a growth mindset to improve and just try new things in general. At the end of the day, I'll stick with some things that I personally find to be more satisfying to me after exploring them. I know you've put a disclaimer to take all of this with a grain of salt (especially since you self-taught yourself), but the feedback, examples, and revisions you provided is valuable to me.

Thanks, Mistreil! aka the meme legend on TBT.

 

[Honey.mei]

I've been thinking for a while now of making an art thread for the purpose of expanding and developing my skills. I thought it would be a good idea to post here since there are a lot of talented people who can draw well and could maybe get some criticism on it. Before we begin, I use Krita as my program to draw digital art with a Wacom Intuos drawing pad. There are some limits I had to work around so I hope you understand that.

Shading with shapes (I followed a tutorial here)
View attachment 381597
The brush I used here is '_Airbrush_Soft' according to Krita. Depending on the pressure, the shade would be darker. Alternatively, I would colour over the same area to get a darker shade as well. Following the tutorial, the light source is coming from myself (aside from a couple of spheres). Now, there's a debate about not using black to shade but for the sake of only practicing, I didn't care about it for now. Because of my limited number of brushes that are already hard to shade with, it looks pretty meh, especially for the curtains. I haven't done ambient occlusion shading yet which is also in the tutorial I watched.

Hand practice (I didn't follow a tutorial)
View attachment 381600View attachment 381601
I used my own hands as a reference to get different poses. I didn't worry too much about the extra details or a realistic style. I was only concerned about trying to get the shapes right. If you look closely, almost each hand has a boxy structure as I'm imagining them as 3d objects to help me. Obviously, it's not very good since I haven't dwelled in this area so often.

Hiya I hope you don't mid my little bit of feedback! As I was reading through your post I thought of some tips that helped me and may be able to help you too!

I just wanted to start off by first saying your art looks really good so far! But to continue,
Shading: Your points of shading and light look really nice but a little critique I would give is the shading is a bit harsh. For soft shading the gradient needs to be a bit longer from light to dark. Now depending on how you want to style you art you could also use cell (or cel) shading ( I'll try not to go into too much detail as its not something you directly asked for advice on.) But basically cell shading is kind of like shading without blending. It focuses more on just a harsh line where the shading is. This can sometimes apply to soft shading depending on where there's no light or what the material is. Having harsher lines where there's almost no light ( Like shading on a cube) rather than blending in places where there is a gradient of light ( like shading on a sphere).

Now i know you said the black shading was for the sake of practicing so feel free to skip over this part until later when you maybe a bit more comfortable with shading before you start stylizing more. But if you feel your ready then feel free to read :>
Details in shading: To start this is nothing wrong with shading in black. A lot of times stylization can come into shading. Seeing as "Shading" is the lack of light and color cant "happen" without light sometimes shading works well with black. But for a less harsh I would suggest shading with a dulled/darker (but not completely black) version of the color your using. This works best in realism as its what we naturally see.
If you prefer a more stylized form of shading you can use colors that are only darker hue wise to shade instead of dulling the color to keep the picture bright. You can also shade with different colors than your main object. For example you can shade the color red with a shade of purple ore shading orange with brown. Sometimes with cell shading you can use darker shades of colors but if they are too harsh you can put them on another layer and lower the opacity. This will work with both types of shading its just another away to add more stylization to your shading But before I ramble on forever ill just say that sometime shading can depend a lot on the color wheel.

I myself still struggle with this (I also draw very stylized) so ill try my best and show you some tips I've learned.
Hands: What your doing so far looks really good so far. But as in all things you have to practice. I've learned that using your own hands as reference works really well. To practice sometimes I like to take pictures of my own hand trace it then try and redraw it without the reference to get the shapes and motions down in my head. You can get any pose you want. Also your usage of block shapes and guidelines will help a lot. Sometimes when I draw hands I find it easy to draw the parts of the hands separately. For example drawing a block for the palm and little ovals or blocks for fingers. I don't know all about drawing hands so I hoped this helped there is always more to learn.

I noticed what you said this in your response to another post and I thought I could try to help a bit. (I hope you don't mind) :>

I forgot to mention this, but no matter how lightly I press on my tablet, the diameter of the brush stays the same and I'm unable to taper (or narrow) those shadows

I noticed you said you used a Wacom Intuos drawing pad and I know this tablet uses pressure sensitivity, so there is a couple other thing that can stop your pen from getting small when using less pressure.
1. This can be a problem with the program your using. You may have a setting turned off that enables pressure sensitivity. This is something you can google to fix but i cannot help you with as I do not mainly use Krita. If you want to test this you can try other drawing programs (such as Autodesk Sketchbook) which is what I use. Its fairly simple and you can use it to test if your pressure sensitivity works on this program. But if there is no difference (this may help) try no.2. The other problem that can stop you from using pressure sensitivity is the brush your using try using different brushes and messing around with them if you haven't already

That's all I have for you I apologies for the excessive information its a bit long but I hope it helps. Also remember that I myself am self taught and no professional. There's always more to learn and everyone learns at a different pace. You are doing great and will continue to do great as long as you keep practicing. :> I apologize for the lack of reference pictures but i tried to go into detail so I hope that helps. Also sorry if i came off as harsh or too stern any time in this writing. I meant it all with good intentions.

 

[Shellzilla_515]

Hiya I hope you don't mid my little bit of feedback! As I was reading through your post I thought of some tips that helped me and may be able to help you too!

I just wanted to start off by first saying your art looks really good so far! But to continue,
Shading: Your points of shading and light look really nice but a little critique I would give is the shading is a bit harsh. For soft shading the gradient needs to be a bit longer from light to dark. Now depending on how you want to style you art you could also use cell (or cel) shading ( I'll try not to go into too much detail as its not something you directly asked for advice on.) But basically cell shading is kind of like shading without blending. It focuses more on just a harsh line where the shading is. This can sometimes apply to soft shading depending on where there's no light or what the material is. Having harsher lines where there's almost no light ( Like shading on a cube) rather than blending in places where there is a gradient of light ( like shading on a sphere).

Now i know you said the black shading was for the sake of practicing so feel free to skip over this part until later when you maybe a bit more comfortable with shading before you start stylizing more. But if you feel your ready then feel free to read :>
Details in shading: To start this is nothing wrong with shading in black. A lot of times stylization can come into shading. Seeing as "Shading" is the lack of light and color cant "happen" without light sometimes shading works well with black. But for a less harsh I would suggest shading with a dulled/darker (but not completely black) version of the color your using. This works best in realism as its what we naturally see.
If you prefer a more stylized form of shading you can use colors that are only darker hue wise to shade instead of dulling the color to keep the picture bright. You can also shade with different colors than your main object. For example you can shade the color red with a shade of purple ore shading orange with brown. Sometimes with cell shading you can use darker shades of colors but if they are too harsh you can put them on another layer and lower the opacity. This will work with both types of shading its just another away to add more stylization to your shading But before I ramble on forever ill just say that sometime shading can depend a lot on the color wheel.

I myself still struggle with this (I also draw very stylized) so ill try my best and show you some tips I've learned.
Hands: What your doing so far looks really good so far. But as in all things you have to practice. I've learned that using your own hands as reference works really well. To practice sometimes I like to take pictures of my own hand trace it then try and redraw it without the reference to get the shapes and motions down in my head. You can get any pose you want. Also your usage of block shapes and guidelines will help a lot. Sometimes when I draw hands I find it easy to draw the parts of the hands separately. For example drawing a block for the palm and little ovals or blocks for fingers. I don't know all about drawing hands so I hoped this helped there is always more to learn.

I noticed what you said this in your response to another post and I thought I could try to help a bit. (I hope you don't mind) :>


I noticed you said you used a Wacom Intuos drawing pad and I know this tablet uses pressure sensitivity, so there is a couple other thing that can stop your pen from getting small when using less pressure.
1. This can be a problem with the program your using. You may have a setting turned off that enables pressure sensitivity. This is something you can google to fix but i cannot help you with as I do not mainly use Krita. If you want to test this you can try other drawing programs (such as Autodesk Sketchbook) which is what I use. Its fairly simple and you can use it to test if your pressure sensitivity works on this program. But if there is no difference (this may help) try no.2
2. This can be a problem with your tablet settings. You can look in tablet settings to make sure your pressure sensitivity
is enables and the pressure is where you want it again, I don't have a Wacom tablet so I wont be able to help you with this in detail.
3, The last problem that can stop you from using pressure sensitivity is the brush your using try using different brushes and messing around with them if you haven't already

That's all I have for you I apologies for the excessive information its a bit long but I hope it helps. Also remember that I myself am self taught and no professional. There's always more to learn and everyone learns at a different pace. You are doing great and will continue to do great as long as you keep practicing. :> I apologize for the lack of reference pictures but i tried to go into detail so I hope that helps. Also sorry if i came off as harsh or too stern any time in this writing. I meant it all with good intentions.[GOTO=][/GOTO]

Thanks for the feedback! If I didn't want any of that, then I wouldn't have made this thread in the first place, so good on you for providing a response!

Shading is a pain for me lol. I am aware of cel shading thanks to The Legend of Zelda Wind Waker! It looks so easy to do since you pretty much draw where the shadow starts and shade with just one colour. Buuut I don't wanna get ahead of myself here and just focus on getting better before trying to establish a style.

Onto the hands... Yeah, it's a huge pain in the rear getting them right. With the feedback you and Mistreil have provided, I will try tracing hands to gain a better understanding of its structure. I appreciate your help even though you're still struggling in this area!

Since you pointed out about my Wacom Intuos pad, it actually works just fine. I tested the pressure sensitivity to make sure. Even the various brushes that are available in Krita work fine with the pressure sensitivity. It's just that the soft airbrush in particular doesn't appear to take advantage of it (as well as the pixel brush, but I only really use it to make pixel art).

Finally, there's no need to apologize for providing excessive information. You provided details that can help me improve and that's what I'm looking for! Your post never came off as being too harsh or too stern and I know you have good intentions to help me. Thanks once again for the feedback!

 

[Mick]

I'm not going to bother trying to give drawing advice because I generally have no idea what I'm doing. But!

The airbrush is one of my favourite tools and I'm absolutely sure that Krita's "b)_Airbrush_Soft" brush should support pen pressure. It's possible that the settings for that specific brush got messed up somehow, since the other brushes work. You'll find the settings for your currently selected brush somewhere in the toolbar (probably at the top?).

The quickest fix is probably to reset these settings. I recommend pressing the refresh button above the arrow on the right, and seeing if it works after that.

Alternatively, the button above the green arrow should bring you to the brush settings menu. There might be multiple things that affect whether pressure sensitivity works, but I do know that it's important to have "Enable Pen Settings" checked.

Spoiler: Brush settings

I'll be curious to hear if that fixed it!

 

[Shellzilla_515]

It's been quite a while since my last art post, so here's one for today on drawing hands! After following @Mistreil's advice on how to draw them and the tutorial they provided, my skill has improved a little bit. In the picture below, you'll see three rows of hands. The top row is traced over a picture of hands. The middle row is a freeform drawing with only using the rows above as reference. The bottom row is the group of blocky hands to help construct the poses before doing freeform drawing. If you're wondering why I didn't draw the hand on the far right, that's because the one on its left is a little too similar for me to do it again (though I probably should anyway for more practice).

Self-critiquing myself, I should have worked more on the wrinkles where the joints are as opposed to just drawing a single line. Moreover, some poses required a little bit of foreshortening. Since I haven't really touched that area, it made the fingers on hands 4 and 5 in the middle row look wonky. Hand 3 doesn't look that bad, though. Finally, the fingernails. Eeesh, I don't know about you, but there's something a little off about it despite using the traced hands as reference. Even with some flaws with the drawing, I feel like I've made some progress which is what I like to see!

I'd like to say once again that feedback would be greatly appreciated!

I'm not going to bother trying to give drawing advice because I generally have no idea what I'm doing. But!

The airbrush is one of my favourite tools and I'm absolutely sure that Krita's "b)_Airbrush_Soft" brush should support pen pressure. It's possible that the settings for that specific brush got messed up somehow, since the other brushes work. You'll find the settings for your currently selected brush somewhere in the toolbar (probably at the top?).

View attachment 382576

The quickest fix is probably to reset these settings. I recommend pressing the refresh button above the arrow on the right, and seeing if it works after that.

Alternatively, the button above the green arrow should bring you to the brush settings menu. There might be multiple things that affect whether pressure sensitivity works, but I do know that it's important to have "Enable Pen Settings" checked.

Spoiler: Brush settings

View attachment 382577

I'll be curious to hear if that fixed it!

Apologies for the extremely late reply, but thank you for your assistance! In fact, prior to your post, I haven't seen this menu in Krita before. I played around with some of the settings for some brushes and found a few things that made them behave differently. I do want to clarify, though, that the 'issue' I had wasn't necessarily the pressure sensitivity on both the software and Wacom pad, but rather how I couldn't taper off using the soft airbrush. Those two words in bold are something I was trying to say, but couldn't find the right terms for it lol. I do appreciate your help, though!

 

[Shellzilla_515]

Here's another area I've been focusing on as of late: Drawing cars. If you know me a little bit, I like cars quite a lot! Though, this isn't my first time drawing them, so I've gained a little bit of skill since then. Moreover, I'm doing cars with simple designs as to not overwhelm myself with smaller details.

Anyway, I'll dump them here. The first one is constructed with simple shapes. The second image is the full thing. Please note that the drawings on the left side are traced. The ones on the right are done by me using the traced drawings as reference. This is so I could get a better understanding of what the smaller details are. I'm applying this same trick when I was drawing hands. As for what tutorials I used, it's this, this, and this when it came to drawing wheels and in perspective. It's only just now I realized I forgot to put in the shadow hnnnngh.

If you're curious, what car this is, it's a Renault R8 Gordini!
Here are the references I used:
First view
Front view

I know no one else around here has a remote interest in cars, but I'd appreciate it a lot if you could provide some sort of feedback!

 

[Dunquixote]

Here's another area I've been focusing on as of late: Drawing cars. If you know me a little bit, I like cars quite a lot! Though, this isn't my first time drawing them, so I've gained a little bit of skill since then. Moreover, I'm doing cars with simple designs as to not overwhelm myself with smaller details.

Anyway, I'll dump them here. The first one is constructed with simple shapes. The second image is the full thing. Please note that the drawings on the left side are traced. The ones on the right are done by me using the traced drawings as reference. This is so I could get a better understanding of what the smaller details are. I'm applying this same trick when I was drawing hands. As for what tutorials I used, it's this, this, and this when it came to drawing wheels and in perspective. It's only just now I realized I forgot to put in the shadow hnnnngh.
View attachment 398514
View attachment 398513
If you're curious, what car this is, it's a Renault R8 Gordini!
Here are the references I used:
First view
Front view

I know no one else around here has a remote interest in cars, but I'd appreciate it a lot if you could provide some sort of feedback!

That looks amazing regardless of differences between the traced and not traced! That looks so daunting to get as much details as you tackled. I think you’re on the right track!

I am sorry if my comment does not help whatsoever since I am still a beginner and don’t know how to give proper art critique. ><

 

[S.J.]

I'm not qualified to offer advice, but I still wanted to say these look great!

That's actually a super cute car. You mentioned doing cars with simple designs, but I think the detail in your drawing is really nice!

 

[Shellzilla_515]

That looks amazing regardless of differences between the traced and not traced! That looks so daunting to get as much details as you tackled. I think you’re on the right track!

I am sorry if my comment does not help whatsoever since I am still a beginner and don’t know how to give proper art critique. ><

On the right track? Lol, you just accidentally made a pun since cars tend to drive on race tracks. But yeah, even though you don't have any feedback whatsoever, I still want to say thank you for taking the time to have a look at it!

I'm not qualified to offer advice, but I still wanted to say these look great!

That's actually a super cute car. You mentioned doing cars with simple designs, but I think the detail in your drawing is really nice!

Thank you! I didn't expect anyone to say that the design of the car looks cute. Once I get a better feel of constructing and drawing cars, I'll diversify the types I'm drawing from various years, whether it'd be convertibles, SUVs, sedans, hatchbacks, etc. Oh, but there are also some cars out there that have hideous designs and I would try to draw them as well for the laughs, so prepare your eyes to be frightened lol. If you want to get a rough idea of what some cars look like with weird designs, have a look at this Fiat Multipla. Yes, I will draw it when I'm more comfortable haha.

 

[Croconaw]

That’s a really nice car! I don’t know the first thing about cars, but your fascination with cars is pretty evident! It looks really nice. I like your untraced version!